Typical household demand is usually much less than the rating of the the main breaker. The current drawn is determined by the loads you apply - by how much stuff you plug in and switch on.
(I’m not sure if an inspector would have allowed a 200 amp panel to be connected to inadequate feeds, but you never know what work was done without a permit).īottom line is that the numbers on your electrical wires, cables and equipment are the rated maximum limits of what they can handle. If you wanted to change that main to a 200 amp breaker, you would have to make sure that the wires feeding your house were rated to carry at least 200 amps of current. That’s okay because it’s below the maximum allowed for that panel. That panel is rated for a main breaker up to 200 amps, but is currently fitted with a 100 amp breaker. The circuits in your home are fed from your main panel. But the loads are what determines current, and normally circuits don’t get that loaded up.
100 AMP BREAKER BOX CODE
The code says that those conductors must be protected from carrying more than 15 amps. Lighting and receptacle circuits for example are usually fed by #14 AWG conductors.
So one of the things a breaker does is protect wires from overload, by switching off the circuit before the wires get too hot. Each size of wire has a limit to how much current it can carry before starts to get hot enough to start a fire. You could build a 30 lane highway in a small town, but it’s not likely that there will be enough cars to cause traffic to back up.īreakers are sized to protect the conductor they feed. Chances are slim that you will have every circuit fully loaded at the same time, so it’s unlikely that the main breaker will see 100 amps. I did describe the project to an electrical and he says it could cost $500+ to do it.I used to be confused by this too. I haven't done any of this before, so not sure about the level of effort. Going through exterior walls and insulation may be hard task. The wiring will need go through outdoors back into the house. The problem there is the upstairs attic doesn't connect to downstairs attic. The other path could be go somehow go through the upstairs attic. Fishing wires between the upstairs floor and downstairs ceiling seems kind of impossible. I am guessing the current bathroom wiring goes down wall to the floor between the upstairs/downstairs.
100 AMP BREAKER BOX PLUS
The main problem is upstairs bathroom is in just hard location to easily took up a new circuit too! Plus I never done any wiring myself and putting in a new circuit beyond my current skills. I guess I could hook it up to current circuit, but it does seem like a bad idea. This mean I will need new circuit, I talked to an electrician who also agrees. This is 12.5 amps out of mine 20 amps line that goes to my upstairs bathroom. It says you can plug it right into a 120V outlet, however it draws up to 1500 watts. Here link for the water heater: Bosch GL4 Ariston 4-Gallon Point-of-Use. One thing that has put a big dent in my low cost project to put in under sink Point of use water heater upstairs is new electrical circuit requirement.
I need advice what I can do about possibly putting a new circuit in my upstairs bathroom.
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